Just like that, Pembrokeshire was done and hello Ceredigion! The path ahead promised more adventures, starting with a road-bound trek into Cardigan. A brief encounter with a herd of cows, their imposing horns enough to deter any further exploration, led me back to the safety of the road. Cardigan welcomed me with open arms, marking the end of one chapter and the beginning of another.

The old houses of Cardigan

Free firewood at Gwbert

Setting off from Cardigan on a gloomy, wet morning, I trudged through fields and roads, the rain intensifying as I reached Gwbert. Feeling miserable, I pressed on, only to meet an ambitious walker on his journey from John o’ Groats to Land’s End, with a loop around Wales. His words about the challenging days ahead made me question my own resolve.

The Beautiful Mwnt

As I continued, the view of Cardigan Island unfolded, a prelude to the splendour of Mwnt. This exquisite haven, where straw-coloured sands meet azure waters, offered more than just natural beauty. With well-maintained facilities and snacks to savour, it was a perfect rest stop. The true marvel, however, was the dolphins dancing in the crystalline waves, an enchanting sight that made every step worthwhile.

Dolphins at Mwnt

Moving past the chapel and along the path, I navigated through fields and an MOD base, finally reaching Aberporth. I settled into my campsite, ready for another night of showers, pondering the unpredictable weather of Wales.

Aberporth

The next day dawned, another overcast day, but a forecast of hope. The hottest June on record saw swimmers enjoying the sea as I passed quirky train-carriage homes. At Tresaith, a waterfall cascaded onto the beach, almost overshadowed by the group of speedy swimmers that raced me round the headland from Aberporth.

Tresaith waterfall onto the beach

The climb up the mountain track was a lung-buster, but the reward was a glimpse of Penbryn, the halfway point of the Wales Coast Path. Celebrating with a feast at the National Trust cafe, I decided more breaks were in order.

Goodbye Tresaith

Hello the Plwmp Tart

Back on the path, the hills rolled like a yo-yo. Llangrannog bustled with tourists, while the “secret beach” of Cwmtydu remained a well-kept local secret. Finally, after miles of sun-baked fields, I reached Newquay. My feet throbbed, but my heart soared, another day ticked off, another step closer to the journey’s end.

Llangrannog

Cwmtydu

Newquay

My next hike day began with Newquay basking in sunshine. Battling past tourist crowds, I wandered through the village and hit the beach. With the tide in, the path was out, leading to some fence-hopping and scrambling up eroded steps, eventually landing in a caravan park. Finding the escape route, I rejoined the path with relief.

Newquay

Aberaeron

Newquay marked the end of the lumpy rollercoaster of cliffs, making for a more relaxed day through woods, fields, valleys and holiday villages. Aberaeron appeared like a colourful gem, its pastel houses oozing character. After refuelling with food and harbour-watching, I pressed on.

Llanon

Aberarth was a quick hop, the path dawdling through its streets. The coastline returned, fields galore, then Llanon. The path detoured inland, weaving through the busy coast road, village roads, and a quiet church visit, before spitting me back into the wild. Cow field after cow field (where are the Welsh sheep?!). Finally, Llanrhystud marked the end of the day. Time for a well-earned rest!

Llanrhystud

Another day, another early start. A storm was coming, and I had to hurry to Aberystwyth before the rain pounded and pushed me off the mountains. Out of Llanrhystud, up a hill with dazzling views of Cardigan Bay. Rain clouds loomed to the south. Yep, caught a downpour soon after. Jacket on, then off, then on again—equally wet either way! But hey, this solo section was bliss. Just me, the path, and the occasional refreshing shower.

Somewhere before Aberystwyth

Aberystwyth finally emerged, a welcome sight nestled beneath a steep hill. I made it before the real storm hit and couldn’t have been happier to call it quits. Some days not a lot happens, and that’s okay. Homeward bound! This coast path isn’t always sunshine and rainbows.

Aberystwyth with cliff railway

Borth blunder! I missed the train by a whisker and watched it chug away as I reached the station. An hour later, I finally set off to Aberystwyth, battling a tourist multitude before finding solace on the coast path. A quick jaunt along the prom and a kick of ‘The Bar’ for luck before starting up Constitution Hill (staggering view!), then…rain clouds looming.

Clarach Bay

Sarn Cynfelyn

Wind at my back, I zoomed past Clarach Bay, holiday park, and Sarn Cynfelyn, a shingle spit to the lost land under Cardigan Bay. Borth beach called, but coastal erosion forced a detour. Snack in hand, I strolled the “straightest street in Wales,” where the paths diverged. The Wales Coast Path took a right, but I went straight to finish the Ceredigion Coast Path. Petrified tree stumps at Ynyslas at low tide and the Dyfi Estuary’s majesty awaited! With a view across the water to Aberdovey, just a mile or so away. It would take me two days to get there but that’s for next time, onwards!

The ancient remains of tree stumps from the time the pyramids were built

The breathtaking view across the Dyfi Estuary

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by Jack_Walkaholic

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